Roman Holiday

Hello! It is already Wednesday morning, and I have yet to share about my holiday in Rome (people here use 'holiday' as 'vacation.' I like it.). Since the Swiss celebrate their independence (or conglamoration of cantons, I guess) on August 1st, I was treated to an extra long weekend, and Steph proposed we go to Rome and the Vatican. No way I was turning that one down! I adequately prepped for my journey by listening to Dean Martin's song, "On an Evening in Roma," and my Italia! playlist in iTunes, before I took an overnight train from Basel to Roma. It was so nice, Laura walked me to the train and waved, "Au Revoir!" and "Bon Voyage!" to me! That was awesome.

The train ride was cramped but still wonderful. The motion of the train is supposed to be a soothing and tranquilizing sleep-inducer, but I definitely woke up every five minutes. I kept reminiscing of the summer after senior year, when I went with the Aschemeiers to France and Spain, with the Spanish Club trip... so many good memories that seem so long ago now. As we neared Rome during the night, I could feel the couchette getting hotter and hotter. As we stepped out of the train and into the Termini, the air was thick, and it was only 9am! Throughout the weekend, we found out that the reason Rome was so empty was because of this heat. The Romans flee the city, and the city is bequest to the tourists from colder regions.

Steph and I stayed at a beautiful hostel in the Trastevere area, which was a converted convent. With terra cotta floors, high, exposed beam ceilings, and on-the-ground beds (not bunk beds), it was so much better than I could have imagined. It was classic Italy. Steph commented that this is definitely the best hostel she's seen, so I know now to not set the bar this high for the next.

My overall impression of Rome was that it was more like Mexico than Florence. I am not sure if it was because I have been in clockwork Switzerland for such a long time or what, but Rome was very dirty, dusty, and chaotic. The Metro system was terribly late and mismarked, and jammed-packed with people. Everyone is so hot and sweaty, that you are just praying that no one's skin touches yours, that YOU don't even touch yours, but it is inevitable. The best part was turning every corner and seeing pages from my art history book. On the bus, in a split second, I saw Trajan's Column! It was so great, to see these timeless pieces in real life, in their natural setting.

There were so many favorites and jaw-droppers (THIS is in Rome?!?), but the Pantheon was one of the best. 

On the outside, it just looks old, with its brickwork and such, but then you walk in and see the light from the oculus, and the coffered ceiling, and it is a step back into time. I just kept thinking of the Titanic; wrong time period, wrong location, but it was that weird transition going in and out of the present, sinking back in time and majesty only to be reawoken by the Japanese videographer in front of you. At night, everything was lit up and people hung around the fountain outside, eating gelato and enjoying the street music. It was great... violinists and opera singers, and wonderful accordion players. I have not heard such good street musicians in a long time.

The Coliseum was a highlight as well. We took a tour during the day, and had a really great tour guide. I loved going on the tour and learning more about the cause and effect of architecture and Roman history, and the Roman thought behind death as a spectacle. It's great when you can see right in front of you the pieces of a once great empire, and hear the stories of how it was and how it became to be what it is today. I have fallen asleep within the first 10 minutes of "Gladiator" both times it was on, mostly because I don't care for period films, but now I am inspired to watch. The Arches of Constantine and Arches of Titus were also nearby (I just kept thinking, thank you Cindy Damschroeder!), and the Forum of more Roman ruins (sometime I think, if Rome is all ruins, is it progressing at all or just preserving?)

Saw the Trevi Fountain, the Spanish Steps, Piazza Navona, the Ecstasy of St. Theresa, the Caravaggio that I painted for Homecoming so many years back, and Santa Maria Maggiore.

We got to see many many churches and monuments, knowing somewhat the history, but more just soaking up the atmosphere of the city than going too deep into the history.

Met Livia on the train, who is from Stockholm, visiting her father in Rome.

It is just so awesome to meet random people like this, I think, just to see people from all walks-of-life, and hear their perspective on the world. We met up with her Saturday evening for dinner and gelato. The gelato place that she took us to had 60+ flavors of gelato. So overwhelming. And they all looked so good! But don't worry, I made the right choice of frutti di bosco, the darkest darkest chocolate, and coffee. Sorry Graeter's, Rome has you beat.

On Sunday we went to the Vatican. Sadly, the Sistene Chapel was closed. It is closed every Sunday, and we didn't know this. At first, I was seriously disappointed, but then I realized that I was still so happy for this chance to go to Rome, and that I would live. Still got to see Saint Peter's, and Michelangelo's Pieta. Everything was very ornate (It's so sad, because your brain sort of goes on overload, and you can't digest all the work that goes into each of these cathedrals), and oddly, a lot small than I imagined. We saw the Swiss guards, in their jester-like attire, but the Pope was ironically in Switzerland in the Alps on holiday. He did the blessing in Switzerland, and it was televised and shown on the big TV screens in the open space in front of the cathedral (kind of an oxymoron, these ancient pieces of architecture and 21st century screens). As Steph put it, we were teleblessed. Check out this crazy photo from inside St. Peter's:

I cannot tell you how great it was to finally understand the majority of signage, and to be able to speak with less hesitation (Katie K., I wish you were here to bust my butt into remembering more from our Italian class). In the beginning, I was combining Swiss German with Italian and English, which even I didn't understand, but by the end I was using quello and questo and wishing that Basel spoke Italian too.

Some things that I really loved about Rome:

–the deep rust orange that was everywhere, real patina, crumbling plaster

–the FOOD!

–all of the water. There were fountains everywhere!

–women in heels (the Swiss women are lazy and go for comfort over flash)

–I didn't get pickpocketed (click for why)

By the end of the trip, I concluded that although Rome is nice, Florence is the prime Italian destination, and could return to Florence again and again, whereas Rome not so much. And, truth be told, I may like Switzerland more than Italy these days...gasp!!! Italian food will always win, but I feel like I belong in Switzerland, I at home here.

On the way back on the train, I slept so well. I think just from being worn out and sunburnt, I was exhausted. I woke up in the morning with the conductor giving me the warning that my stop was approaching, and looked outside, and got to sip espresso with the sunrise over the mountains and Lake Thun. I did it! A successful sunrise! Finally!!!

After a nasty fall down two flights of stairs in the bahnhof (literally, the whole train station was quiet and looking at me as I am sprawled in disarray and praying that the prosecco that I bought was not exploding all over me in my backpack. One of the most painful experiences. But you just get up and pretend that you don't want to cry and hold your legs until they stop pulsating.), I went home and got ready for a full day of work. Yep. That was one sentence.

Monday evening I watched some competitive beach volleyball in Barfüsserplatz, and then went to Bible study in Liestal, despite being terribly tired and in pain. It was great to see everyone, and eat some great homemade sushi (way too expensive to have out here). And had a great evening with the roommates afterwards, just sitting on the balcony and planning some time that we can all go to the mountains together. I love my roommates! So cheesy, but I seriously just want to hug them all the time. Tonight, Roger, Laura, and I went for a walk around the city, laughing and chatting. Ah, the life.

Ok, I'm tired and you are probably sick of skimming/reading. Excited to see my parents on Thursday! And to go to Berlin this weekend! I hope life is treating you well. I will now leave you to some final pictures of Rome... love Linds.

Imitation ontop authenticity.

Reporter: Which of the cities visited did Your Highness enjoy the most?

Princess Ann: Each in its own way, was unforgettable. It would be difficult to...Rome! By all means, Rome! I will cherish my visit here in memory as long as I live.

—Roman Holiday, 1953